WANDERING AROUND PLAKA.

When I first visited Athens back in 1979, it was the Plaka that attracted me most.  I stayed in an old walk-hotel on Aeolou St. and wandered the area (though for some odd reason, those first few visits I totally missed Plaka Square, choosing instead to hang out in the area around Hadrian's Library and the old Roman Agora.  Perhaps because I had made friends with the taverna workers there and they always made me feel at home.

 PLAKA

 I decided to go to live in Athens in 1983 but a friend and I had an apartment farther away in the Koukaki district.  It wasn't until 1984 that I moved into Plaka in a basement suite at #14 Vironos St.
This appealed to me partly because "Vironos Street" was "Byron's Street" named so because at one time there was a small monastery at the end of the street where he used to stay. And right around the corner from that was Shelley Street named after Percy Byce Shelley,  Bryon's poet friend. 

My suite opened to a lovely courtyard in which there was another small house (spitaki) and over the years a variety of interesting people lived there including artists and writers.  Most of my years at #14 though it was Roberto, an artist from Argentina, who became my best friend. The owners lived upstairs, Dina and Ioannis and yiayia - lovely people, so friendly and accommodating. And in another small house behind Robert's spitaki, in a back courtyard, was a workshop of one of the curator's of the acropolis museum (the old museum) where he was often restoring old statues.

Down the street at the place where Bryon used to live, there was a milk shop. The excavation on the old monastery site had caused a lot of dust so we called it "The Dirty Corner".  Right there at the corner was the old monument of Lysikratis, a tripod monument award the chorus of a drama held long ago in the ancient theatre of Dionysus.  This are, it seems, was once the theatrical part of old Athens. That suited me fine!

Milk shop (now a posh cafe) at the "Dirty Corner"

I still love browsing around Plaka every time I'm in Athens. It's quite touristy with many souvenir shops, tavernas and tables crowded with visitors, but it's a fun part of town.  I used to pass #14 every day I was there and look through the gate. Sadly the owners are no longer there and the last time I went the gateway was totally boarded up.  The Dirty Corner is now a rather posh restaurant. And the dust is gone from the excavations. 

One of the things about Plaka is all the graffiti. This is a big thing in Athens - good or bad. I find it upsetting in some cases but in others it is attractive and artistic. Sometimes it's political slogans or people's names sprayed on the old walls, but often it is well-crafted artwork. What I don't like is when it's sprayed on neo-classical buildings.

There's lots to see around Plaka from the shops to the old ruins and Plaka Square is a great place to meet up and enjoy a cold frappe or a beer at one of the sidewalk tables, or to just sit inside the square on a bench under the trees to watch passers-by.

One of my favorite taverans on Tripidon Street

Plaka is the old Athens and that's what I like most about it -- philosophers and dramatists once walked those cobbled streets. And yes, people like Byron and Shelley too!  And once when I was sitting in Square who came strolling by escorted by her 'bodyguards', dressed all in white, her red-gold hair like a halo, but the beautiful Greek actress Melina Mercouri.  There's a museum for her now in one of the old houses.

Roman Agora

former Mosque, now folk art museum

Former Turkish school

Plaka Street

  

Plaka Wine Bar

From Plaka you can visit the Monastiraki bazaar and experience some of the Ottoman parts of the city alongside the Roman.  And towering above it all is the magnificent Acropolis crowned with the Parthenon.  If you want some quiet away from the bustle of it all walk along the pedestrian roadway beside the Herod Atticus Theatre and you'll come to the tree-covered Filopappou Hill and a bit farther than that, pathways through the trees will lead you to the Hill of Nymphs, my favorite picnic spot.

And whatever you do, don't miss the New Acropolis Museum which is one of the most wonderful museums I've ever visited. I had the thrill of watching it being built from the first excavations to the shining finished product. It's all part of my old 'hood!

MY SEATTLE WEEKEND: PART III: Browsing around Pike Market

Pike Place Market

One of the great things about the hotel I stayed in (The Four Seasons) was that it was right in the midst of all the downtown action. I only had to walk a short block to arrive at the legendary Pike Place Market which is a farmer's market extraordinaire. The vibrant atmosphere, the crowds of people some come to shop, other (like me) just to browse, make it one of Seattle's most popular destinations. Some even say it's the 'soul' of Seattle!

I'd heard about the zany fish-mongers at the market so I headed straight for the Pike Fish Market right near the entrance.  A crowd had gathered to watch the antics of the fish handler's as the banter and show up their wares, acting up while they do it. It's worth taking time to stand there and gawk awhile. They sell 120 varieties of seafood from shellfish to salmon.

The fish is kept smothered under ice to keep it fresh.

 

Besides the entertaining guys at the fish store, you can interact with other farmers and merchants all through the market area which stretches for quite a long way and includes various levels. Peruse the fresh farm vegetables, stalls selling honey, home-made chocolate, herbs, and many other food items. There's even some entertaining curio shops in the downstairs area.

 

 

 

Lots of crafts to choose from.

 

 

Or browse along the colourful tables of craft items and other shops. You'll find almost every kind of craft there from candles to ornaments carved out of the ash left from the Mount St. Helen's volcanic explosion. There's more than sixty places to eat as well as live music to entertain you.

 

Red Hot Chili Peppers

 

When the market first opened in 1906 there were only eight farmers displaying their wares. Now there's more than 200 businesses, 190 craftsmen, and approximately 100 farmers. The Market is one of the most popular places in Seattle for both locals and tourists. I could have spent much longer there than I did but in the time it took me to wander around I think I saw most of it. Another time I'd like to make it a shopping trip. This time I was just a curious tourist.  But I did stop by one of the Japanese food booths and have a delicious chicken teriyaki on a skewer for my lunch. Just $3.75! Then I headed down to pay a visit to Pike Place Brewery for a cold Indian Pale Ale.

 

NEXT: Part IV: An Entertaining Evening at the Pike Brewing Company and Pub



AN AUTUMN WEEKEND ON MAYNE ISLAND, B.C.

At least once a year our writer's group spends a weekend on beautiful Mayne Island, one of the Gulf Islands in Georgia Straight between the mainland and Vancouver Island. We've been going there now for nearly 20 years, almost every year. This past weekend was a special time for us as we gathered to honour the memory of one of our dear friends who passed away this summer. We wanted to do all the things she enjoyed and one of them was walking in the woods and along the shores of the island.



There are a many places to visit on Mayne Island.  One of them is Campbell Point.  The morning was overcast and the sea looked gray and stormy but soon the sun came out .... and stayed...for the rest of the weekend.

A favorite excursion is to the Japanese Gardens  It was built in memory of the Japanese farmers who used to live and work on the island until they were interned at the outbreak of WWII.  The garden features ponds, bridges, a waterfall, torii gates and an authentic recreation of a Japanese charcoal kiln.

We love to go to the Garden to browse and write haiku.  It's a place to meditate and enjoy nature.  The gardens are maintained by volunteers and there's a little box where you can leave donations for the upkeep of the gardens.

One of the pretty fountains

Cross the bridge to the little islet surrounded by the pond.  There were still some flowers blooming and even bees buzzing around them.

Farther around on the path beside the pond a lone heron stands guard. (This is just a stone heron but it looks so real!)

And there were bright red crab apples growing in the trees.  (a bit to sour to eat!)

This was a lovely time to visit the island with all the brilliant autumn colours.



On another day we drove to the Georgina Point Lighthouse at Oyster Bay.

This is a historic lighthouse built in 1885, overlooking the Strait of Georgia.

 

It's always fun to explore around this area.  You can watch the ferries sail by on their way from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay.

There are many other places of interest on Mayne Island with hiking trails to Mt. Parke or along the many scenic beaches.  If you want to kayak or canoe there are rentals available, as well as bikes for cyclists.  If it's shopping and art that interests you, there are crafts shops and boutiques as well as artist studios.  Check out the Mayne Island visitor's website to find out more about the island including the many island accommodations and activities.   www.mayneislandchamber.ca

We always stay at the Blue Vista Resort www.bluevistaresort.com

And be sure to check out the Springwater Lodge for great meals.  Sit on the deck in nice weather and enjoy the scenery of Miner's Bay.  This is the oldest lodge on the coast, built to accommodate men on their way to seek their fortunes in the mines at the turn of the century.

Evening over the Straits