EXPLORING OUTSIDE MONASTIRAKI & PLAKA

In the past years there has been a great deal of gentrifying of old areas around Monastiraki that have now become popular 'hip areas' with Athenians and tourists.  These areas are located near Monastiraki and you can walk there or take the metro.

Old church built on site of ancient shrine

 Thissio

THISSIO is located at the west end side of the Agora and was named after a nearby ancient temple - the Temple of Hephaestion also known as the Thesseion.  It's a charming neighbourhood with neo-classical houses and many street restaurants, some with great views of the Acropolis.  Stop and have a drink of iced frappe at one of the cafes at Thission Square. The central pedestrian zone, Irakleidon St. has lots of cafes and bars  as well as traditional tavernas.

The National Observatory is nearby, the oldest research institution of Greece. The building is located on the Hill of the Nymphs where a sanctuary once stood.

Thissio Park is at the north-west section of the Agora. It was first planted with trees in 1862 and  was once the place where Greeks celebrated Easter.

You should visit the Islamic Museum of Art located in an old neo-classical building in Thission near Keramikos. www.benaki.gr  It's a change from the usual Classical and ancient displays in Greece but there is a section of the old city wall there and an ancient tomb as well.

 Psiri Square

PSIRI is located north of Monastiraki, just off Athinas Street. It is an older area that has been gentrified with several good reasonably priced hotels, restaurants, wine bars and other attractions such as the Museum of Greek Gastronomy  www.gastronomymuseumgr.com located at 13 Ag. Dimitriou St. It's worth a visit and you can have special meals there to learn more about unique Greek food. 

The Museum of Greek Gastronomy

If you like cheeses, try the Karamanlidika Tou Fani Restaurant where you can sample cheese, cold-cuts and gourmet products with traditional tastes, or Bougatsadiko were you can try delicious authenit 'bougatsa' a pie-like delicacy. The Orea Penteli is a traditional Greek taverna in the heart of Psiri Square, just a l minute walk from Monastiraki.  They serve excellent gyros accompanied by Greek wines. To 21 is a popular hang-out with live music every day.

GAZI where the old Gas Works is located can be reached by foot from Monastiraki or from the Thesseion Metro Station. This is an interesting area to browse around and the Gas Works has been turned into an exhibition centre for art shows and other events. Gazi is now considered one of the trendiest areas of Athens.

exhibition centre 

Gazi has lots of popular eateries and wine bars. I visited Cartone for lunch one day and enjoyed a delicious lunch with my favorite Mythos beer. If you prefer a change and like Asian food, Gazi has a Chinese restaurant, Asian Taste, where you can enjoy Cantonese food while taking in an excellen tview of the Acropolis.

Cartone

KERAMEIKOS was given its name because back in the ancient days it was where many potters had their shops (kerameikos=ceramics). Today it's most notably know as being the site of the ancient cemetery built just outside of Athen's original city gates.  The site itself is open daily 8 am - 8 pm, admission 2 euro. There is a small museum on the site. It's worth a walk around to see the dozens of monuments erected for the notables of the ancient times as well as portions of the old city wall and gates.

The Kerameikos Ancient Cemetary

Wall of Ancient Athens

Inside the Kerameikos Museum

The bull was a gravemarker for Dionyskos of Kollytos

I toured around these areas a number of times during my recent stay in Athens, mainly because I was doing research for the Athens Guide e-book which I wrote for an American publisher.  It was fun exploring new territory and I'll definitely check out a few more of the restaurants next time I'm in town!

NEXT:  Roman & Ottoman Plaka

MY WEEKEND IN SEATTLE: PART IV: A Fun Evening at Pike Brewery and Pub

Pike Brewery & Pub

 

 

The first night I arrived in Seattle I went out for a neighbourhood walk and was delighted to come across the Pike Brewery & Pub just a block up the street. I decided to stop for a pint and have a look around as it looked like a pretty happening place, packed full of merrymaking folk enjoying the lively pub atmosphere.

 

 

 

Pike's Pub serves all the brews made by the Pike Brewery which is also part of the premises.  It's said to be Seattle's 'classic shrine to beer'. It reminded me somewhat of a British pub, but much larger than most British pubs would be, with various areas for sitting with a beer or dining. There's even a Beer Museum. It features ales and beers brewed on the premises as well as local wines, cheeses and a temping pub-meal menu reasonably priced.

Cute wall mural

 

 

The bar was crowded with drinkers and diners so I had to wait for a little while to get a seat for dinner, although I could have sat at the bar area.  As it was my first night in town I wanted to treat myself to something special so I ordered a plate of fresh clams stewed in a delicious savory coconut sauce complimented by a tall glass of Pike's Indian Pale Ale.

I went back the following day to look around and sample another pint of ale.  I discovered the Beer Museum in the back room and spent some time browsing there, looking at pictures and write-ups explaining the history of beer from Egyptian times on.  There's an interesting collection of beer bottles and various types of steins on display as well.

The pub is open 11 am to midnight daily.  PIKE PLACE MARKET AREA
1415 First Ave. Seattle WA
www.pikebrewing.com

NEXT: MY SEATTLE WEEKEND Part V: Exploring Seattle's Underground



A DAY WALKING STEVESTON'S HISTORICAL WATERFRONT

Steveston Village, located on the southwestern shore of Richmond, was once a frontier seaport and principal port on the mighty Fraser River.  It was founded by William Herbert Steves in 1880. He imagined it would be a town that would rival Vancouver.  The town flourished up to 1910 and then there was a decline in the salmon industry. At the turn of the twentieth century the village was one of the busiest fishing ports in the world.  There were fifteen salmon canneries, six hotels, numerous saloons and gambling dens and daily windjammers anchored in the port loading canned salmon to distribute to the world markets.  On weekends, up to 10,000 people thronged Steveston's boardwalks: sailors from all over the world, Native Indians, Japanese, Chinese and European immigrants.  In 1918 a devastating fire destroyed much of the town and there was more hardship during the 1930`s depression.

Bunkhouse kitchen

At the time the Second World War broke out there were many Japanese fishermen living here and after Pearl Harbour their boats and property were seized as they were all sent away to interment and Steveston lost half its population and many businesses.   There is a small memorial park for the Japanese fishermen at Garry Point and one of the historic houses left at Steveston belonged to a Japanese family.

It's always a pleasant outing to spend the day at Steveston.  You can rent bikes to ride along the dikes, visit the fish market on the wharf, or the Farmer's Market.  Or just stroll along the boardwalk and take in all the sights while you investigate the heritage buildings, some now turned into museums.

Kite flying at Garry Point

Last weekend my friends and went to Steveston, first for a salmon barbecue at my friend Diane's home. She bought the fish fresh from the fish market on Steveston's wharf.  Then we set off for a tour, to show my friend from Germany around.  Patrick has been to Vancouver many times, but never to Steveston.

By the Steveston boat works

We started off at one end of the boardwalk where there are several heritage houses including one of the bunkhouses used for workers in the cannery.  The day was hot and so walking along by the river was refreshing.  When we got to Steveston town there are many boutiques and excellent dock-side restaurants: everything from seafood to Italian food.  One of the most popular (on the wharf) is Pajo`s Fish and Chips.  The town itself has many heritage buildings including the Steveston Museum which shows the history of the community. (pick up a brochure that will guide you through a Steveston Village Heritage Walking tour).

Fisherman`s Wharf

The Fisherman`s Wharf was bustling with activity as the fish boats were in port displaying their catch and lots of people go there to buy their fresh salmon, shell fish and even sea urchins. 

Sea Urchins

Fresh Salmon for Sale

We stopped by the Gulf of Georgia Cannery which is a National Historic site, although this day we didn`t tour through it.  Then we walked over to Garry Point where you can enjoy a broad view of the river delta,  picnic at the beach or fly kites in the park.  At the very end of the Point is a memorial to fishermen.  It represents a seine net mending needle mounted on a round base with a compass rose motif that represents a compass, one of the main instruments used for navigation.

Sculpture of Salmon Cannery Workers.

The day proved to be invigorating and somewhat tiring by the time we walked all the way back to where the car was parked.  But if you take the bus there, or drive, you can park in the village and walk from there.  I also recommend renting bikes down on the wharf and cycling the dikes.  If you cycle east you`ll reach the historic London Heritage Farm or going around Garry Point you can cycle as far as the airport.

Fishermen`s Memorial at Garry Point

Patrick and I with a view of the River from Garry Point