LALA: A Travel Memoir

LALA, Evvia, Greece

My village

 

The village is hidden on the mountains five kilometres from the port of Karystos on the island of Evvia, Greece. If you didn’t know of its existence, you likely wouldn’t find it. Lala is so small, only about 100 houses, that It’s hardly even a hamlet, more like an omelette. I learned about the village from my friend Antonia, who’s village it is. So when she invited me up there one day back in the ‘80’s when I had gone to live in Greece, I took up the invitation. And that began my village life living in a little stone shepherd’s cottage.

To reach the village you have to take the ferry over to the island and then catch a bus that runs between the ports of Marmari and Karystos. Watch for the gas-station sign at the crossroads and get off, walk a half hour or more into the village along the gravel road, up the hill. This road is familiar to me. I know every curve of the road and the little bridge where a drunken shepherd once fell into the ravine, and the hidden shady place by the stream where I always rest on my way up or down the road.

As I approach the village the women come out on their porches to wave greetings. ‘Kali Mera!” They know its me, the Canadian woman who lives in the little spitaki next to Antonia’s house.

At the end of the gravel road, there’s a narrow trail leading through Lala, once just a goat trail now widened to let cars and trucks through. But it’s a dead end, going only as far as the grove and waterfall where the old mill is hidden in the shade under the big plane trees.

My little house, the spitaki, is an old stone-built cottage that dates back to 1475. The roof and floor have been repaired but the thick stone walls are still the same as the original. There’s a carved stone over the fireplace with a Byzantine cross and the date. This was the original cornerstone of the cottage. You can’t see the spitaki from the road because it is hidden, with only the roof and back wall visible. The front of the cottage looks out over the citrus groves. I can quite easily hide there away from everyone. It’s a perfect place for a writer. I feel safe and cozy here, hiding from prying eyes, alone and comfortable. It’s a good place to be away from the bustle of Athens, and I spend every weekend all the summers there living in the village.

My Spitaki

One in awhile the village ladies come by to see how I’ve fixed the spitaki up, with dried herbs hanging from the rafters and the old furnishings restored. They tell me about the old woman who once lived there and died in the iron bedstead bed. (It was her husband who fell off the bridge). “She must look on you with a good eye,” the ladies say. And I believe this is true. In fact, one day a stray cat came calling and made herself comfortable in the house. I called her “Miss Kitty”. She wouldn’t allow me to touch her and she seemed very much the ‘boss’ of the house. I think she was the spirit of the old lady, Evangelitsa, who used to live there.

I love that little house and sit on the porch hidden from view, often take showers out on the porch (because the only running water is from the garden hose). How many times have I showered out there, believing I’m hiding from prying eyes? Then one day one of the village women giggles and tells me, “My husband sees you on the porch taking a shower.” And one night, as I sit in the dark watching the stars, I hear footsteps and see a man creeping up the path to spy on me. I realize I am not really as invisible as I’d thought so after that I’m careful to preserve my privacy.

Last summer I visited the village after an absence of a couple of years. It was strange, because Lala was deserted. It almost seemed as if aliens had come and taken the residents away. There wasn’t a soul to be seen. Where were they hiding? I saw some houses with shutters nailed shut and knew some of the old folk had probably passed on. But my friend Erasmia’s garden was in full bloom so she must have been around somewhere. But where was she hiding?

It gave me an eerie feeling to find the village so deserted. I walked down to the mill and up the road to the graveyard to visit the grave of my dear shepherd friend, Mitso, who had died a few years before. The graveyard was overgrown and some of the markers tumbled down. I couldn’t find Mitso’s grave. Where was it hiding? And then I saw his sister’s name on a grave and remembered that after several years, Greeks exhume the bones of the dead and move them to an ossiary. Misto was gone, and in his place was his sister who had died more recently. And I have no idea where they have hidden Mitso’s remains.

So now the village has all become a memory. I wonder if I will ever return. I had considered a trip there last summer -- hoping to see my old friend Erasmia, and another visit to the graveyard, this time to put flowers on Antonia’s grave. She was buried there just a few weeks after I had visited my last time. But somehow, due to the heat which meant it would not be pleasant hiking down the mountainside, and because my friend who would have come with me was not available, I didn’t go. And I’m not sure I ever will again.











NOW I'M HOME AGAIN, SOME TIPS FOR TRAVELERS TO ATHENS

I've been home two weeks now, and I'm finally over jet-lag and culture shock, and right back into my daily routines of instructing writing classes, getting my own writing caught up and reminiscing about the seven weeks I spent abroad.  I have a treasure-trove of wonderful memories and a lot of excellent photos to remind me of those lovely, sunny (sometimes too hot!) days in London, Wales, Germany and Greece.

Today I got a message from a traveling writer friend who just returned from Milan.  She said her husband had his pocket picked in Milan and lost his money, credit cards etc.  This reminded me of a warning I wanted to pass on to future travelers to Europe, and in particular Athens.  Beware of pick-pockets and purse snatchers because they are rampant in the city.  Not only have tourists been robbed, but also locals.  The thieves are watching people who stop at ATMs and banks and you are followed and accosted.  It happened to me last year right on the main street near the National Gardens. My sister and niece were following just behind me.  We had crossed the road from the bank and were heading up to see the evzones change guards at the Parliament buildings. I felt someone tap my back-pack and assumed it was my sister or niece but just then four girls accosted me, two on each side, and bumped me. I immediately pulled off my backpack to find it was open.  Fortunately my wallet was at the bottom but they had taken my gold cosmetics bag.  A short few minutes later we were in front of the parliament watching the guards routine.  People were pressing around. Again I felt someone nudge me, a woman, and immediately removed my backpack to find it was open.  I had acted too quickly for her hand to reach in and take my wallet.

Two incidents have been related to me by friends of their husbands going to the bank, being followed onto the metro and immediately jostled, and having their wallets stolen.  While I was in Athens a couple of weeks ago, the police arrested 75 Romanians who had been 'working' the metro trains and stations stealing wallets.  I also heard about a tourist in Monastiraki who had his bag snatched in broad daylight while on a crowded street.  So beware!

It is unfortunate that this is happening as when I lived in Athens and up until recent years there was very little crime there and I always felt perfectly safe.  Now it is no longer so.  DO NOT go around Omonia Square at night, and avoid getting a hotel anywhere in that area.  It is now full of drug addicts, thieves and prostitutes.  My friends who live in Athens are terrified to go near there, especially at night.  So take my advice and stay away from that area.  It might be cheaper than around Plaka, but it is very dangerous!

You must also be aware of the traffic in Athens as it is dense and speedy so watch out crossing roads.  People don't necessarily obey traffic rules.

I also found out that I couldn't wear my fancy shoes while I was there because I'd forgotten about the wonky sidewalks.  In the main downtown area it might be okay, but around Plaka and the other neighbourhoods the sidewalks are uneven, sometimes cobblestones and often with cracked pavements.  It's best to wear comfortable flat footwear.  I noticed everyone wearing beautiful thongs and sandals and that is the best bet, other than some sturdy running shoes or trainers. 

There doesn't seem to be the problems with electrical wiring that there used to be.  Back when I first started to visit Greece in '79 there were some pretty dodgy wiring jobs in hotels, but that has been rectified and in general washrooms and other public places seem pretty safe.  But remember something there, you still have to put toilet paper in the bins, NOT in the toilets!  It's a bit hard to get used to a first, but you'll soon get the knack (and find  yourself doing it once you get home too!)

In general you will have a safe and happy time in Athens.  There's plenty of people around in the tourist areas, and the Greeks are friendly and helpful.  You might find it a bit disconcerting on the local beaches when you are assailed by the droves of African and Bangladesh vendors who swarm all the beaches and even the streets of the city, in particular Plaka.  When I was on the islands, I didn't notice the same problem, but in Athens it has become a bit overwhelming.  I wonder how many of them are illegal immigrants.  It's a pretty bleak way to try and make some money.

Enjoy your stay there. Athens is an exciting city and there's lots to see and do.  Just be aware of the possible 'dangers' and take care.  Best to carry credit cards and extra cash in a body wallet tucked under your clothing.  My rule is to never carry any visa or debit card on me unless I intend to use it and then make sure it's safely tucked away where preying hands cannot reach it.  And because of the incident with my back-pack, I am careful not to carry my wallet there unless it is tucked away out of reach.  Better safe than sorry!

Athens sunset

Tweet

TIME TO SAY GOODBYE

View of Lykebetos across the Agora



It's my last day here in Athens.  I am anxious to get on the way home but at the same time will feel deep regret leaving.  That's always the way it is. I am torn between here and home (both being 'home' to me).
If I could, I'd stay much longer like I used to during the 90's when I stayed six months at a time while working on my novel.  But this time I didn't do much writing and I realize now that I must get myself a notebook computer so I can be writing more on the road.  (I did make notes but because of the intense heat of August didn't feel too inspired!)

It's been wonderful seeing all my old friends and wandering my old haunts.  I've missed the absent ones and sometimes felt very nostalgic on this visit, as we always feel their presence.  I love Greece and all the opportunities it offers to me for exploring and creating new stories, whether historical or travel.  And although I have been many places in this country there are still so many others to explore. So I know I'll always come back here.  I couldn't bear to never see my Athens family and friends again.

So, til the next time,  Kalo taxidi and goodbye to Athens.  Don't worry, I'll probably be back next year!

Sunset from Dinaz's rooftop apartment

A SALAMINA ADVENTURE

View from Christina's house, Salamina



My friend Christina has bought property on the island of Salamina (Salamis) just off the west coast of Attika.  I have only visited there (briefly) one afternoon long ago and had no idea what to expect.  It isn't an island that tourists head for and even many Greeks don't bother.  I was happily surprised by what I discovered there.

Salamina is off the coast near Pireaus in the Saronic Gulf.  The Straight of Salamis ws the scee of the famous naval battle between Greeks and Persians, about Sept 22, 480 BC.  Salamis was a key point In Themestocles plan of defense again the Persians and this was a decisive battle.  The battle wasn't as legendary as the one at Marathon, but it is still considered as one of the most decisive naval battles in history.  There is a monumet to the battle near the ancient port of Salamis.  Currently, the Greeks keep the most important naval station in Greece at Salamina and you can see the naval ships when you come into the port.

The Beach

Salamina is much larger than I'd expected with many coastal and mountain villages and high mountains.  Chris's house and studios is in one of the small village, up a very steep hill.  So every time we went to the beach, we walked down and had to hike up.  Believe me, that strenuous hike has now qualified me for the Grouse Grind!  I amazed myself at achieving this twice a day while I was there!



I stayed in Salamina for the weekend, then coming home Sunday was a bit of an adenture as the direct passenger ferry to Pireaus didn't show up, so after waiting more than an hour, I called Chris for instructions and caught the little Perama foot passenger boat which runs every 10 mins, and on the other side, at Perama, found the bus that takes you right to the Pireaus metro station.  I got home just in time to meet up with Dina, Andreas and a group of other friends (friends and relatives of our late friend Graham) for a little party at Mike's artist studio and then a wonderful late lunch at a rooftop taverna in Thission.

A DAY AT CORINTH (OLD AND NEW)

Corinth with Acrocorinth in background

I hadn't visited Corinth (Korinthos) since 1996 and only once before that, during my early days in Greece, so I looked forward to going there again this week with my friends Andreas and Dina.  We headed off early Tuesday morning along with their friend, Lydia, and drove through some dense traffic where the oil trucks (striking) had parked all along the highway, blocking the lanes.  Eventually got there, across that famous old Corinth Canal that was dug centuries ago to make a shipping lane from the Aegean Sea to the Gulf of Corinth.  It's one of those engineering wonders but is rarely used these days.

The ancient city lies below the slopes of a mountain, Acrocorinth, a precipitous mountain that was the acropolis of the ancient city.  The city was in existence since the 5th millennium.  It was at one time known for its naval strength and ship building, and during the Persian Wars, served as a Greek headquarters. 

Temple of Hera



In 338 BC, Corinth shared the Greek's defeat of Chaironea and the Macedonians built a garrison there.  Following that, it was under the leadership of King Philip and later Alexander the Great, and flourished under a century of Macedonian rule.  The Cynic philosopher Diogenes (414 -323) ended his days in Corinth.

In future years, the city was besieged by the Romans and lay desolate until Julius Caesar Planted a colony of veterans on its site.  The Apostle Paul came here during that time and was said to have addressed the Corinthians from the Bema, which still stands among the ruins of the agora.  There are several notable, interesting remains in the ancient (Roman) city and a few of the old Greek city including a theatre and the Asklepeion, the Fountain of Lerna, the Roman baths and most notable, the Temple of Apollo (mid 6th C. BC) with its Doric columns.  There is also an interesting museum at the site.

Roman Baths



After touring the archaeological part of Corinth, we drove down the the Bay of Corinth, picked up Andreas' cousin (another Andreas) and went to a lovely seaside taverna where we had a refreshing swim and later enjoyed one of the best arrays of seafood I've tasted: oktopodi (marinated octopus), kalamarakia (tender, succulent calamaria), filleted sardines and two other types of small fishes cooked whole (maridakias and garides) plus a big plate of fresh horta (greens) and deep fried zucchini balls, all washed down by several jugs of white wine.

Later, Andreas' cousin took us to see where a spring of fresh water gushes and flows into the sea at a place where he said once the women of his village used to wash clothes.

In all, it was a remarkable day, one that will forever stick in my memory.

I've spent the week with my friends in their beautiful roof-top flat overlooking the city clear out to Pireaus where you can see the ships at sea.  We went one day to Flisvos Marina for icecream, the other days just sat around on the balcony enjoying the view and the sunsets and discussing my novel and other literature.  It was indeed a very special time spent with these special friends.

MY ATHENS FAMILY

I thought it was time I introduced my Athens family.  These are people I have known for many years and who I usually stay with when I am visiting here.  Without their kind hospitality I probably wouldn't be able to afford such long holidays in Athens and we have become extended families, always keeping in touch.

Christina, Carola and Kim

Many of the friends I first met when I started coming to Greece have left, passed away or moved on. When I went to find Ari, a waiter I've known since 1979, I found he had retired and moved to Patras.  My dear soul-brother friend Roberto, the Argentine artist who shared so much time with me, passed away from cancer 7 years ago. And another good friend, Graham, a retired British accountant, also died five years ago.  But these friends are linked to my other friends as we have all shared time together and were part of a large group who either hung out at the former "Dirty Corner" on Vironos St. or at the To Kati Allo Taverna in Makriagianni. 
My friend Christina is originally from Sweden but has lived in Athens for years, and used to work in the tourism industry.  She was a friend of Robbie's who informed me, back in 1995, that she needed a babysitter for her 1 year old daughter Daniella.  I accepted the job and we have been close friends ever since. Daniella is now a gorgeous 15 year old.  Christina now runs a little dress shop in Koukaki and has just bought property in Salamina where she will use part of her house there as guest studios.  Christina's friend Carola, originally from Germany, is also a long-time friend. She's married to a Greek.  She also works in tourism.

Dina and Andreas



I met Dina back in 1993 when she was working in a tourist office. She is my Persian Princess (because when I met her I realized she was the living example of Princess Drypetis in my novel Shadow of the Lion. She is,in fact, Parsi, from Mumbai and  is  married to another very nice Greek man, Andreas, who also works in tourism.  She has a son named Andreas who I have known since he was quite young. 

The folks who run the To Kati Allo are gypsies from near Sparta in the Peloponnese.  At first Anna's brother Babis used to run a sandwich shop on Hatzichristou St. where the gang gathered back in the '80's.  She then opened her taverna next door.  Her son Dino was a little boy then, running around the tables, and now he is married (to an American girl) had has two children of his own.  Her husband Leonidas drives a taxi.

Mike and Me

That's the taverna where I always hang out when I'm here.  It's right across from the new acropolis museum (south side) and the prices there are cheaper than the up-scale tavernas on Makgrianni St around the corner. Anna does the cooking, Dino is now taking over the shop.  It's always a fun place to hang out although without the daily attendance of Roberto and Graham it gets a bit lonely.  Ove, the Danish archaeologist, still goes there every day and sometimes Mike, the English artist also comes by (though he usually goes to a taverna in Thissio or Gazi).  There used to be apartments across the street where Graham lived but those were torn down to build the museum.  The Norwegian Institute is up the street so in the past there were usually classical scholars who stayed there such as my friend Anna Britt, who I also met at To Kati Allo.  The Finnish Institute is around the corner and I had friends from there too, including Vesa, an architect, who sometimes visits at the same time Anna Britt and I are here.  I also have a friend who is a very talented artist.  Mike has lived in Athens for many years and I met him through Roberto. He is part of the To Kati Allo group of friends.

Zoe



Two other friends are Zoe and Carol.  Zoe came to Greece to live about the same time I did, in 1983, and married a Greek bouzoukia player.  Carol lives in a house that was right across from where my friend Robbie lived. It also happens to be the house where Audrey Thomas stayed while she wrote her book "Latakia".  I met Zoe at the American Church where she and her two children attended back around 1995 and we've always kept in touch.  I met Carol a couple of  years ago when a friend stayed at her Villa Olympia.  But Carol knows all the people I do as she has lived in Athens for years, so we found much in common.  I thoroughly enjoyed staying at her old neo classical house and would recommend it as a residence for any writer who is coming to Athens. (Or traveler who wants a homey place to stay other than an expensive hotel). 

Over the years I've managed to keep in touch with these very special friends and they are all part of my Athens Family.

A STROLL ALONG THE AREOPAGITOU TO THISSIO

Thission Taverna

Areopagitou is the long pedestrian mall that runs beside the Acropolis.  All along this walk you will see archaeological sites and  you'll get some wonderful views of the Parthenon and surrounding hillsides.
Keep walking, and you will reach the Thissio district, an area named after the nearby ancient temple in the Agora.  It's a traditional neighbourhood with charming neoclassical houses.  It's become very popular in recent years with many outdoor cafes located around Thissio Square. 

Kerameikos

Nearby is the Kerameikos, a part of ancient Athens located in the north west outskirts of the ancient city.  It was party enclosed and in the centre was an arch known as the Dipylon Gate where the Panathenaic processionals would start, and a Sacred Arch where the Sacred Way began leading to the Elefsinian Mysteries.

The district was named after the potters (Keramioi) who lived there on the banks of the River Iridanos.  However it is best known as an important burial site honoring citizens of Athens.  There are avenues lined with grave stele and a memorial where Athenians who died in the Battle of Charionea against the Macedonians are interred, as well as memorials to other Athenian heroes.  There is a museum on the site with some of the finds.

I passed by there yesterday while exploring Thission on my way to find the James Joyce Irish Pub which is located on a side street just between Thission and Monastiraki Metro Stations.  You can spot it right behind the fences that block off a new archaeological dig on the street running by the rail tracks.  Friends had told me about it and I can guarantee it's worth a visit.  I went inside the air conditioned bar which was stepping back into a real Irish pub.  Their menu is impressive and includes such dishes as Sausages and Mash and Dublin pasties. Of course there is Guiness on tap!

I ordered steamed mussels and a Guiness.  The mussels were stewed in white wine and lemon with bacon bits and were absolutely fabulous!  Some dark bread accompanied them to sop up the 'soup'  I'll write more about this pub later as it's unique to find such a place in the middle of the traditionally Greek market area. My meal and the relaxing stop in that friendly place topped off my afternoon wanderings.

My friends, Christina, Carola and Kim

I just had time to rush home, shower, change and hop a tram (they started running again at 4 pm) to meet Christina, Karola and Kim at the To Kati Allo for a fun evening of chats over white wine that only cost us 3.50 euro a half litre.  Talk about a cheap evening! And so much fun to be with the girlfriends.