NOW I'M HOME AGAIN, SOME TIPS FOR TRAVELERS TO ATHENS

I've been home two weeks now, and I'm finally over jet-lag and culture shock, and right back into my daily routines of instructing writing classes, getting my own writing caught up and reminiscing about the seven weeks I spent abroad.  I have a treasure-trove of wonderful memories and a lot of excellent photos to remind me of those lovely, sunny (sometimes too hot!) days in London, Wales, Germany and Greece.

Today I got a message from a traveling writer friend who just returned from Milan.  She said her husband had his pocket picked in Milan and lost his money, credit cards etc.  This reminded me of a warning I wanted to pass on to future travelers to Europe, and in particular Athens.  Beware of pick-pockets and purse snatchers because they are rampant in the city.  Not only have tourists been robbed, but also locals.  The thieves are watching people who stop at ATMs and banks and you are followed and accosted.  It happened to me last year right on the main street near the National Gardens. My sister and niece were following just behind me.  We had crossed the road from the bank and were heading up to see the evzones change guards at the Parliament buildings. I felt someone tap my back-pack and assumed it was my sister or niece but just then four girls accosted me, two on each side, and bumped me. I immediately pulled off my backpack to find it was open.  Fortunately my wallet was at the bottom but they had taken my gold cosmetics bag.  A short few minutes later we were in front of the parliament watching the guards routine.  People were pressing around. Again I felt someone nudge me, a woman, and immediately removed my backpack to find it was open.  I had acted too quickly for her hand to reach in and take my wallet.

Two incidents have been related to me by friends of their husbands going to the bank, being followed onto the metro and immediately jostled, and having their wallets stolen.  While I was in Athens a couple of weeks ago, the police arrested 75 Romanians who had been 'working' the metro trains and stations stealing wallets.  I also heard about a tourist in Monastiraki who had his bag snatched in broad daylight while on a crowded street.  So beware!

It is unfortunate that this is happening as when I lived in Athens and up until recent years there was very little crime there and I always felt perfectly safe.  Now it is no longer so.  DO NOT go around Omonia Square at night, and avoid getting a hotel anywhere in that area.  It is now full of drug addicts, thieves and prostitutes.  My friends who live in Athens are terrified to go near there, especially at night.  So take my advice and stay away from that area.  It might be cheaper than around Plaka, but it is very dangerous!

You must also be aware of the traffic in Athens as it is dense and speedy so watch out crossing roads.  People don't necessarily obey traffic rules.

I also found out that I couldn't wear my fancy shoes while I was there because I'd forgotten about the wonky sidewalks.  In the main downtown area it might be okay, but around Plaka and the other neighbourhoods the sidewalks are uneven, sometimes cobblestones and often with cracked pavements.  It's best to wear comfortable flat footwear.  I noticed everyone wearing beautiful thongs and sandals and that is the best bet, other than some sturdy running shoes or trainers. 

There doesn't seem to be the problems with electrical wiring that there used to be.  Back when I first started to visit Greece in '79 there were some pretty dodgy wiring jobs in hotels, but that has been rectified and in general washrooms and other public places seem pretty safe.  But remember something there, you still have to put toilet paper in the bins, NOT in the toilets!  It's a bit hard to get used to a first, but you'll soon get the knack (and find  yourself doing it once you get home too!)

In general you will have a safe and happy time in Athens.  There's plenty of people around in the tourist areas, and the Greeks are friendly and helpful.  You might find it a bit disconcerting on the local beaches when you are assailed by the droves of African and Bangladesh vendors who swarm all the beaches and even the streets of the city, in particular Plaka.  When I was on the islands, I didn't notice the same problem, but in Athens it has become a bit overwhelming.  I wonder how many of them are illegal immigrants.  It's a pretty bleak way to try and make some money.

Enjoy your stay there. Athens is an exciting city and there's lots to see and do.  Just be aware of the possible 'dangers' and take care.  Best to carry credit cards and extra cash in a body wallet tucked under your clothing.  My rule is to never carry any visa or debit card on me unless I intend to use it and then make sure it's safely tucked away where preying hands cannot reach it.  And because of the incident with my back-pack, I am careful not to carry my wallet there unless it is tucked away out of reach.  Better safe than sorry!

Athens sunset

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TIME TO SAY GOODBYE

View of Lykebetos across the Agora



It's my last day here in Athens.  I am anxious to get on the way home but at the same time will feel deep regret leaving.  That's always the way it is. I am torn between here and home (both being 'home' to me).
If I could, I'd stay much longer like I used to during the 90's when I stayed six months at a time while working on my novel.  But this time I didn't do much writing and I realize now that I must get myself a notebook computer so I can be writing more on the road.  (I did make notes but because of the intense heat of August didn't feel too inspired!)

It's been wonderful seeing all my old friends and wandering my old haunts.  I've missed the absent ones and sometimes felt very nostalgic on this visit, as we always feel their presence.  I love Greece and all the opportunities it offers to me for exploring and creating new stories, whether historical or travel.  And although I have been many places in this country there are still so many others to explore. So I know I'll always come back here.  I couldn't bear to never see my Athens family and friends again.

So, til the next time,  Kalo taxidi and goodbye to Athens.  Don't worry, I'll probably be back next year!

Sunset from Dinaz's rooftop apartment

A SALAMINA ADVENTURE

View from Christina's house, Salamina



My friend Christina has bought property on the island of Salamina (Salamis) just off the west coast of Attika.  I have only visited there (briefly) one afternoon long ago and had no idea what to expect.  It isn't an island that tourists head for and even many Greeks don't bother.  I was happily surprised by what I discovered there.

Salamina is off the coast near Pireaus in the Saronic Gulf.  The Straight of Salamis ws the scee of the famous naval battle between Greeks and Persians, about Sept 22, 480 BC.  Salamis was a key point In Themestocles plan of defense again the Persians and this was a decisive battle.  The battle wasn't as legendary as the one at Marathon, but it is still considered as one of the most decisive naval battles in history.  There is a monumet to the battle near the ancient port of Salamis.  Currently, the Greeks keep the most important naval station in Greece at Salamina and you can see the naval ships when you come into the port.

The Beach

Salamina is much larger than I'd expected with many coastal and mountain villages and high mountains.  Chris's house and studios is in one of the small village, up a very steep hill.  So every time we went to the beach, we walked down and had to hike up.  Believe me, that strenuous hike has now qualified me for the Grouse Grind!  I amazed myself at achieving this twice a day while I was there!



I stayed in Salamina for the weekend, then coming home Sunday was a bit of an adenture as the direct passenger ferry to Pireaus didn't show up, so after waiting more than an hour, I called Chris for instructions and caught the little Perama foot passenger boat which runs every 10 mins, and on the other side, at Perama, found the bus that takes you right to the Pireaus metro station.  I got home just in time to meet up with Dina, Andreas and a group of other friends (friends and relatives of our late friend Graham) for a little party at Mike's artist studio and then a wonderful late lunch at a rooftop taverna in Thission.

A DAY AT CORINTH (OLD AND NEW)

Corinth with Acrocorinth in background

I hadn't visited Corinth (Korinthos) since 1996 and only once before that, during my early days in Greece, so I looked forward to going there again this week with my friends Andreas and Dina.  We headed off early Tuesday morning along with their friend, Lydia, and drove through some dense traffic where the oil trucks (striking) had parked all along the highway, blocking the lanes.  Eventually got there, across that famous old Corinth Canal that was dug centuries ago to make a shipping lane from the Aegean Sea to the Gulf of Corinth.  It's one of those engineering wonders but is rarely used these days.

The ancient city lies below the slopes of a mountain, Acrocorinth, a precipitous mountain that was the acropolis of the ancient city.  The city was in existence since the 5th millennium.  It was at one time known for its naval strength and ship building, and during the Persian Wars, served as a Greek headquarters. 

Temple of Hera



In 338 BC, Corinth shared the Greek's defeat of Chaironea and the Macedonians built a garrison there.  Following that, it was under the leadership of King Philip and later Alexander the Great, and flourished under a century of Macedonian rule.  The Cynic philosopher Diogenes (414 -323) ended his days in Corinth.

In future years, the city was besieged by the Romans and lay desolate until Julius Caesar Planted a colony of veterans on its site.  The Apostle Paul came here during that time and was said to have addressed the Corinthians from the Bema, which still stands among the ruins of the agora.  There are several notable, interesting remains in the ancient (Roman) city and a few of the old Greek city including a theatre and the Asklepeion, the Fountain of Lerna, the Roman baths and most notable, the Temple of Apollo (mid 6th C. BC) with its Doric columns.  There is also an interesting museum at the site.

Roman Baths



After touring the archaeological part of Corinth, we drove down the the Bay of Corinth, picked up Andreas' cousin (another Andreas) and went to a lovely seaside taverna where we had a refreshing swim and later enjoyed one of the best arrays of seafood I've tasted: oktopodi (marinated octopus), kalamarakia (tender, succulent calamaria), filleted sardines and two other types of small fishes cooked whole (maridakias and garides) plus a big plate of fresh horta (greens) and deep fried zucchini balls, all washed down by several jugs of white wine.

Later, Andreas' cousin took us to see where a spring of fresh water gushes and flows into the sea at a place where he said once the women of his village used to wash clothes.

In all, it was a remarkable day, one that will forever stick in my memory.

I've spent the week with my friends in their beautiful roof-top flat overlooking the city clear out to Pireaus where you can see the ships at sea.  We went one day to Flisvos Marina for icecream, the other days just sat around on the balcony enjoying the view and the sunsets and discussing my novel and other literature.  It was indeed a very special time spent with these special friends.

MY ATHENS FAMILY

I thought it was time I introduced my Athens family.  These are people I have known for many years and who I usually stay with when I am visiting here.  Without their kind hospitality I probably wouldn't be able to afford such long holidays in Athens and we have become extended families, always keeping in touch.

Christina, Carola and Kim

Many of the friends I first met when I started coming to Greece have left, passed away or moved on. When I went to find Ari, a waiter I've known since 1979, I found he had retired and moved to Patras.  My dear soul-brother friend Roberto, the Argentine artist who shared so much time with me, passed away from cancer 7 years ago. And another good friend, Graham, a retired British accountant, also died five years ago.  But these friends are linked to my other friends as we have all shared time together and were part of a large group who either hung out at the former "Dirty Corner" on Vironos St. or at the To Kati Allo Taverna in Makriagianni. 
My friend Christina is originally from Sweden but has lived in Athens for years, and used to work in the tourism industry.  She was a friend of Robbie's who informed me, back in 1995, that she needed a babysitter for her 1 year old daughter Daniella.  I accepted the job and we have been close friends ever since. Daniella is now a gorgeous 15 year old.  Christina now runs a little dress shop in Koukaki and has just bought property in Salamina where she will use part of her house there as guest studios.  Christina's friend Carola, originally from Germany, is also a long-time friend. She's married to a Greek.  She also works in tourism.

Dina and Andreas



I met Dina back in 1993 when she was working in a tourist office. She is my Persian Princess (because when I met her I realized she was the living example of Princess Drypetis in my novel Shadow of the Lion. She is,in fact, Parsi, from Mumbai and  is  married to another very nice Greek man, Andreas, who also works in tourism.  She has a son named Andreas who I have known since he was quite young. 

The folks who run the To Kati Allo are gypsies from near Sparta in the Peloponnese.  At first Anna's brother Babis used to run a sandwich shop on Hatzichristou St. where the gang gathered back in the '80's.  She then opened her taverna next door.  Her son Dino was a little boy then, running around the tables, and now he is married (to an American girl) had has two children of his own.  Her husband Leonidas drives a taxi.

Mike and Me

That's the taverna where I always hang out when I'm here.  It's right across from the new acropolis museum (south side) and the prices there are cheaper than the up-scale tavernas on Makgrianni St around the corner. Anna does the cooking, Dino is now taking over the shop.  It's always a fun place to hang out although without the daily attendance of Roberto and Graham it gets a bit lonely.  Ove, the Danish archaeologist, still goes there every day and sometimes Mike, the English artist also comes by (though he usually goes to a taverna in Thissio or Gazi).  There used to be apartments across the street where Graham lived but those were torn down to build the museum.  The Norwegian Institute is up the street so in the past there were usually classical scholars who stayed there such as my friend Anna Britt, who I also met at To Kati Allo.  The Finnish Institute is around the corner and I had friends from there too, including Vesa, an architect, who sometimes visits at the same time Anna Britt and I are here.  I also have a friend who is a very talented artist.  Mike has lived in Athens for many years and I met him through Roberto. He is part of the To Kati Allo group of friends.

Zoe



Two other friends are Zoe and Carol.  Zoe came to Greece to live about the same time I did, in 1983, and married a Greek bouzoukia player.  Carol lives in a house that was right across from where my friend Robbie lived. It also happens to be the house where Audrey Thomas stayed while she wrote her book "Latakia".  I met Zoe at the American Church where she and her two children attended back around 1995 and we've always kept in touch.  I met Carol a couple of  years ago when a friend stayed at her Villa Olympia.  But Carol knows all the people I do as she has lived in Athens for years, so we found much in common.  I thoroughly enjoyed staying at her old neo classical house and would recommend it as a residence for any writer who is coming to Athens. (Or traveler who wants a homey place to stay other than an expensive hotel). 

Over the years I've managed to keep in touch with these very special friends and they are all part of my Athens Family.

A STROLL ALONG THE AREOPAGITOU TO THISSIO

Thission Taverna

Areopagitou is the long pedestrian mall that runs beside the Acropolis.  All along this walk you will see archaeological sites and  you'll get some wonderful views of the Parthenon and surrounding hillsides.
Keep walking, and you will reach the Thissio district, an area named after the nearby ancient temple in the Agora.  It's a traditional neighbourhood with charming neoclassical houses.  It's become very popular in recent years with many outdoor cafes located around Thissio Square. 

Kerameikos

Nearby is the Kerameikos, a part of ancient Athens located in the north west outskirts of the ancient city.  It was party enclosed and in the centre was an arch known as the Dipylon Gate where the Panathenaic processionals would start, and a Sacred Arch where the Sacred Way began leading to the Elefsinian Mysteries.

The district was named after the potters (Keramioi) who lived there on the banks of the River Iridanos.  However it is best known as an important burial site honoring citizens of Athens.  There are avenues lined with grave stele and a memorial where Athenians who died in the Battle of Charionea against the Macedonians are interred, as well as memorials to other Athenian heroes.  There is a museum on the site with some of the finds.

I passed by there yesterday while exploring Thission on my way to find the James Joyce Irish Pub which is located on a side street just between Thission and Monastiraki Metro Stations.  You can spot it right behind the fences that block off a new archaeological dig on the street running by the rail tracks.  Friends had told me about it and I can guarantee it's worth a visit.  I went inside the air conditioned bar which was stepping back into a real Irish pub.  Their menu is impressive and includes such dishes as Sausages and Mash and Dublin pasties. Of course there is Guiness on tap!

I ordered steamed mussels and a Guiness.  The mussels were stewed in white wine and lemon with bacon bits and were absolutely fabulous!  Some dark bread accompanied them to sop up the 'soup'  I'll write more about this pub later as it's unique to find such a place in the middle of the traditionally Greek market area. My meal and the relaxing stop in that friendly place topped off my afternoon wanderings.

My friends, Christina, Carola and Kim

I just had time to rush home, shower, change and hop a tram (they started running again at 4 pm) to meet Christina, Karola and Kim at the To Kati Allo for a fun evening of chats over white wine that only cost us 3.50 euro a half litre.  Talk about a cheap evening! And so much fun to be with the girlfriends.

WHAT TO SEE AROUND SYNTAGMA SQUARE

Syntagma Square is Athens' central square. Its name means "Constitution Square" which is derived from an uprising on Sept 3, 1842 when the people demanded that King Otto, the first king of Greece, grant a Constitution.  This area, in front of what was the Royal Palace (now the Parliament) is well known today as the gathering place for protests and, unfortunately in recent times. riots.  Around the area are fashionable cafes and restaurants as well as some of Athens' most outstanding New Classical Buildings.

The Parliament Building dominates the square. It was constructed from 1836-42.  The kings used to reside here until a fire destroyed the building.  In 1924/23, the building was reconstructed and used as the Parliament.  Out in front is the Monument of the Unknown Soldier bearing an inscription with excerpts from Pericles' Epitaph.  It is  here that the select troop of the Evzones, wearing traditional uniforms, stand guard.  The changing of the guard ceremony takes place every hour and on Sunday mornings, it is accompanied by a military band and a large regiment of Evzones.
Across the Square is the Grand Bretagne Hotel, built in 1842 which was original built as a private residence.  It has been used for notables and celebrities visiting Athens and is now a luxury hotel.

Stairway and Courtyard of the Schlieman House



I took a stroll down one of the main roads leading from Syntagma to take photos of some of the neo-classical buildings.  Panepistemeion Ave. a  busy road linking Syntagma to Omonia Square.  Along here are some of Athens' unique landmarks including the Catholic Church of Agio Dioysios (1853-1865) and the former home of Heinrich Schlieman, the German archaeologist and philhelene who excavated Troy.  It now houses the Numismatic Museum.

"The Three Temples of Learning" (The Athenian Trilogy) are on are this street.  These are beautiful buildings that are prime examples of the Greek architectural style.  The Athens Academy is decorated with painted freizes.  Two high columns on either side support statues of Apollo and Athena.  t the front steps leading up to the building sit Plato and Socrates.

Athens Academy



The University building (1839-64) has a circular stairway and fountain court.  Next to it, the National Library is the largest in the country.  On the facade is a six columned portico in Doric style.  These buildings were designed by the Hansen brothers, two Danish architects who lived in Greece.

From Syntagma Square if you walk up Vassilis Sophia Ave. you will see exquisite buildings that house various embassies.  These neo-classical mansions were formerly owned by wealthy families.  There is the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the French and Arab Embassies and others.  The Italian Embassy building was once the residence of Prince Nicholas before the royal family was expelled in 1917.  One of the most impressive of these buildings is the Beanaki Museum, one of the leading museums in Athens.  It displays more than 45,000 exhibits that belong to Ant. Benakis and other donors.

Across from the embassies you can enter the National gardens, an oasis in the centre of he city covering an area of 160,000 m.  Over 500 varieties of different plants, trees and bushes from around the world grow there.  It was formerly the palace garden but is now open dawn-dusk for the enjoyment of the Athenians.

The Zappeion



I love walking through the gardens and this day I walked right through to the Zappeion, an attractive building also designed by a Hansen brother (1874-1888). It's now used as an exhibit and conference hall.  Across from the Zappeion on Vassilios Olgas, you'll see the Olympic sized swimming pool, and tennis courts used for the first modern Olympics as well as he nearby Panathinaiko Stadium where the first modern Olympic Games were held.

Florence Part II: The Food...Burp

Warning. This blog entry is going to make you hungry. 

Florentine food is probably the best in the world and I'm not exaggerating. Aside from the usual pizza, pasta and gelato that you can find in every corner, Florence boasts of some signature dishes that are oh so yummy and made of natural ingredients from the hillsides of Tuscany. If you find yourself at a loss on where to eat in this food-filled city, just follow the locals. They'll know where to go.

Here are a few places that were highly recommended. 

Best Pizza: Gusto Leo

You can find a lot of pizzas in cafeterias and restaurants around the Duomo that look like this.

One slice is 3.50 Euros and is OK if you're on a very tight budget. They taste quite good and have fresh ingredients but somehow still lack the authentic feel. 

That's why you need to go to Gusto Leo. 

 

Recommended by one of the managers of our hotel, this restaurant is frequented by locals and tourists alike. A whole pizza is not too expensive, somewhere between 8 to 15 Euros depending on the toppings. Plus, they're heaven--as in melt-in-your mouth-I-want-another-slice-and-another-and-another heaven. Don't take my word for it. Go there and  order one. 

Gusto Leo also serves salads with nothing-can-be-fresher-than-these veggies

  

And the famous Florentine trippa (tripe) dish.

And let's not forget the dessert. If their pizza is heaven, their Tiramisu is divine. 

And I cried with joy when I tasted their strawberry panna cotta.

Sigh...

Back to reality. 

A meal for 4 (with dessert and wine) costs around 60 to 70 Euros which is not bad for a great meal. Gusto Leo is located in Via del Proconsolo in the historical center of Florence. 

Best Sandwich: Nerbone

You can try sandwiches in shops around the Duomo but nothing comes close to Nerbone's boiled beef sandwich, the panino con bollito. The beef is dipped in meat juices and cooked to perfection. 

Since the shop has been in business since 1874, eating this sandwich is like taking a bite out of Florentine history. Nerbone is located at the Mercato Centrale. Come early for lunch because it becomes really crowded and you almost have to fight in order to get a table. Otherwise you have to eat standing up like the old locals that frequent this shop.  

The sandwich costs around 5 Euros.

Best in Local Cuisine: Trattoria le Mossace

This place is literally a hole-in-the-wall. If you walk fast in the Via del Proconsolo, you'll miss it. It's small, cozy and filled to the brim with locals. Managed by the Fantoni-Manucci family for 50 years, this small restaurant serves probably the best local food in Florence. 

Their pezzatino fiorentino (beef drowned in some tomato sauce concoction) tastes great.

And I don't know what they did to the spinach but it sure is delicious. 

 

We also ordered their ribollita (vegetable and bread soup) which I failed to take a picture of. 

A meal for 4 with wine at Trattoria Le Mossacce costs around 50 Euros.   

And lastly

The Best Gelato: Vivoli

There's a gelataria (ice cream shop) for every five steps you take in Florence. Some of them serve very good gelato, others are just OK, but they all pale in comparison (even the famous GROM) to Vivoli.

Since the best ice cream in the world is in Florence and the best ice cream in Florence is Vivoli, then Vivoli must be the best ice cream in the world. And I totally agree. There's nothing quite like it.

Located in a small alley (a bit hard to find), the Via Isola delle Stinche, close to my favourite church, the Sta. Croce (more on that in a later post), Vivoli has been making homemade gelato since 1930. They make it in the morning and try to sell everything (which probably they do) before they close. So the gelato that you get is as fresh as can be. 

My favourites are the peach and dark chocolate flavours. And you should try the rice (yes, rice!) ice cream.  It's quite yummy and not what you expect it to be.

And it's cheap, too! The smallest cup (with one, two or three flavours) costs 1.50 Euros. 

It's been a month since I've been to Florence and I still crave for Vivoli gelato. Any gelato that I eat now will never be as good. You can ignore any of my food recommendations but please go to Vivoli. Otherwise, your Florence experience will never be complete. 

On to the sights of Florence in my next post.     

  

Florence Part 1

There's a famous French saying that goes, 'Visit Florence and die'.  If the inhabitants of the country that has the Eiffel Tower and the Notre Dame think so highly of this Italian city, then it must really be one hell of a beautiful place. As I have found out for myself, the French are totally right. Florence is bellissima indeed.

But before I wow you with the pictures, let's start with the logistics first, where to stay. I recommend the Hotel Medici Florence, a quaint 2-star hotel that charged us 55 euros a night. It's cheap, comfortable, clean and comes equipped with just the basics.    

Our room was on the 5th floor, which has a small terrace shared with other rooms. We didn't have any air conditioning and it was quite hot (we were there during the summer) but the terrace had this view. 

The Hotel Medici is just a corner away from the heart of Florence, the Cathedrale Sta Maria del Fiore, which you probably know by it's more famous name, the Duomo. 

So who needs aircon when you have this location and this view?  


There's also a rooftop terrace where you can eat your takeaway pizzas and gelatos while swooning at the Duomo

Or at the Palazzo Vecchio

The staff--Mauricio, some dreadlocked guy and a young guy in his early 20's--were really nice and made good recommendations about where to eat. The only setback is the parking. If you're going to Florence by car, be prepared to pay at least 20 euros for 24-hour parking. We stayed there for 3 days so we paid almost 100 euros (sigh). The hotel will arrange to have your car towed to a parking garage. You don't need a vehicle to go around Florence since everything worth seeing is within walking distance. 


Now that we're done with where to stay, I'll move on to another logistics in my next post, where to eat (mmmmmmm).